interview | MEN’S FASHION CREW OF JACK’S STUDIO – EMTP
Shanghai-based EDITION-Made to Pleasure (aka: EMTP) was founded in 2012 by two entrepreneurs, Penn and David, who have strong ideals and faith for menswear design. Joined by their textile designer, Erica, in 2014, who diversified and added expertise to the team, EDITION-Made to Pleasure has shattered the rigid notions of menswear tailoring, explored the endless possibilities of high-quality menswear, and transformed menswear into a lifestyle through European textiles and traditional British craftsmanship. EMTP chose canvas to be the medium of creation for their collaboration with Jack’s Studio. Canvas, in the eyes of the EMTP team, has a two meanings: at once it is the classic material that makes up Converse sneakers, and at the same time it is also one of the key materials for bespoke Western-style clothing. Through this innovative experiment with traditional canvas material—plant-dying, coating treatment, and extreme temperature tests—the actual nature of the original material is changed. The finished fabric combines classic menswear production techniques with functional and trend-conscious design to produce a series of “Creators’ Uniforms” that is both unique and in line with the energy of Jack’s Studio.
For more from EMTP on NeochaEDGE, link here.
For more fashion on NeochaEDGE, link here. /// TS
Why did you three come to form a team together, please introduce yourselves.
EMTP: Our EDITION Made to Pleasure is based on traditional craftsmanship, and uses new thinking to create classic menswear. The word “EDITION” comes from the term for a version of a book, and tailoring clothing is a way to allow different people to wear their own version of the clothing. “Made to Pleasure” is a spin on “Made to Measure”, with the meaning of both good fit and pleasurable aesthetic.
How you define the relationship between innovative and classic? And how do they show up in your work?
EMTP: Positive innovations will naturally become classic, but it requires the test of time. Our industry is a living example of that. In the past, custom ready-to-wear craftsmanship was the standard for clothing in the West, and after experiencing various ups and downs, it is now reaching popularity yet again. Our work is continuing to push step-by-step for innovation, as well as taking in different elements to enrich what we do. We hope one day that what we do will become the new classic.
For these pieces with Jack’s Studio, why did you choose to use plant-dying to dye the fabric?
EMTP: We use purple cabbage, schisandra fruit, and other plants to dye and print the fabric, because people in ancient times also used these plants to dye fabrics. By doing it this way, it is much more environmentally friendly and has no harmful effects on the wearers. The colors end up being longer lasting and more vibrant, too.
Can you share more about what you are most pleased with in the pieces you have designed for Jack’s Studio?
EMTP: The best piece has been this pillow. The color comes from plant dye, which not only shows well, but also has very neutral tones that both men and women can use. Additionally the design consists of simple geometric shapes, which pays homage to Henri Matisse, whose later work was very simplistic. We feel that those who like JP are the ones who take action to do things, or the ones who dirty their hands in order to create their own products. Therefore, this piece that we have done is very simple and practical, which allows everyone to participate in it. The design is also produced from joining effects, which has its origins in a traditional sewing technique from ethnic minority communities in China.
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